After an early breakfast, we set out for an all day game drive with site inspections. Kenya’s Amboseli National Park is in some ways probably best known because of its location. The park is watched over by Mount Kilimanjaro and Amboseli is the place where the most iconic views of Kili can be seen. The mountain is best seen at dawn and dusk when the clouds dissipate and reveal the massive massif. That said, there is no guarantee that you’ll see the mountain, so if it’s important to you, ask us about the best times of year to try and see it and then cross your fingers when you visit as nature offers no guarantees. We were lucky during our stay and saw it on multiple occasions.
The park itself is quite dusty, some of which is from overuse, though there are efforts underway to reduce off-roading and to remedy the erosion. It is fascinating to watch dust devils spring from nowhere and dance across the landscape. Strangely, along with the dust come large marshes that are incredibly lush. We frequently found elephants neck deep in water and vegetation feeding on the abundance.
Speaking of elephants, they are probably the park’s other biggest attraction. The open landscape hosts elephant numbers well over 1000 strong and they live in their natural social structures of matriarchal families and bull elephant groups. During our time in Amboseli we saw hundreds of elephants, including a two-day-old baby. Additionally, we saw hyena, raptors and scavengers alike feeding on a dead hippo; as well as gerenuk, bat-eared fox, dozens of bird species, a leopard tortoise, and the usual safari suspects such as impala, giraffe and warthog.
We also visited three of the park’s properties, each with a very different flavor. First up was Tortilis Camp. Tortilis is named after the flat topped, umbrella thorn tree, the Acacia Tortilis, and is situated just outside the Park in one of Amboseli’s few remaining areas of unspoiled woodland. The camp has 17 spacious tents, all with en-suite bathrooms with showers and flush toilets. Each tent has a king-size or twin beds and modern bathrooms with hot showers and flush toilets. Tents are raised up on a wooden deck and have a thatched roof overhanging a large veranda – the perfect place for afternoon relaxation.
The common areas are up on a hillside and are quite open with lovely views. The pool would no doubt be refreshing on a hot day and entertaining for kids needing to burn off a bit of energy. With its location outside of the park, Tortilis has game walks on offer, or if that’s not your cup of tea, they are only a moment’s drive from enjoying game driving in the park.
After Tortilis, we had an enjoyable and restorative picnic stop, and took a few minutes to climb Observation Hill after our lunch. The walk was quite easy and provided very rewarding views for very little effort. From there, we drove to the Amboseli Serena Hotel. It is a well-situated property and its low physical profile provides stunning views of the plains. An avenue of beautiful euphorbia trees lines the passageway to the 96 comfortable guest rooms, each with its own uninterrupted view over the ever-changing vistas of the African plains. Rooms have an en-suite bath and shower and come in every variety imaginable; king, queen, twin, triple, connecting – you name it. Rooms are styled in a Maasai theme featuring bead work, gourds, hand-painted murals and the architecture of the lodge is based on a traditional Maasai homestead.
The Serena has a swimming pool and other facilities include bars and restaurant as well as a spa for beauty treatments or massage. Baby-sitting facilities are also available from the housekeeper. With the extensive facilities this would be a good choice for families and larger groups.
Our final site visit of the day was to Tawi Lodge. Tawi is located on a private conservancy of 6,000 acres just five minutes from Kimana Gate, the eastern entrance to Amboseli National Park. The lodge is a good choice for luxury travelers. Each of the 12 cottages has its own wooden-deck veranda and a fabulous view of Kili (on a clear day) and the dramatic surrounding landscape. Cottage design is such that guests get the same stunning view from the comfort of their beds or bathtubs as well as the veranda. Cottages are double or twin and all have spacious en suite bathrooms fitted with both a bath and shower. Each cottage has its own fireplace and a mini bar for private sundowners. Lighting and water systems are solar powered and a charging facility for cell phones and camera batteries is available. As a final touch, butler service is provided for maximum privacy and comfort.
Massage services are available and there is a ‘natural’ swimming pool (which looked beautiful but I didn’t find very inviting for a swim with its ‘natural’ filtration system), lovely common areas and an impressive wine cellar. Game drives are available and for an extra charge, they can arrange helicopter rides.
After enjoying a restorative cup of tea, we departed Tawi for a game drive back through Amboseli to Selenkay. There was no shortage of animals en route; more elephants than we could count, along with plains game in abundance. We also got to enjoy a stunning rainstorm on the flanks of Kilimanjaro while we stayed dry. We stopped to watch the sunset, which lived up to the idyllic picture that so many of us have in our minds when we think of Africa.
Upon returning to camp, we were greeted with an outdoor barbecue under the stars. A delicious and magical meal to end a stunning day.
The next morning, we departed by mini-bus to Amboseli National Park. The roads in Kenya vary from good to abysmal; and traffic – especially large-truck traffic – can test a saint’s patience. That said, the drive itself was interesting and very beautiful in some spots. 2.5 hours in, we turned off the main road for a quick break in a great gift shop then resumed our journey into the Selenkay Conservancy and on towards Amboseli Porini Camp. Selenkay is 10 miles north of Amboseli over the northern its boundary. If you’re lucky, you’ll enjoy views of Mt. Kilimanjaro on your drive to the camp. The Conservancy shares the same eco-system as Amboseli and is established on lands leased from the local Maasai by Porini Camps with the aim of protecting the habitation and encouraging wildlife conservation as an alternative to farming as a means for the local population to earn a living.
There is only one camp in the conservancy. Visitors (only 18 at any given time) benefit from the knowledge and experience of the Masai who work in the camp as game rangers, trackers and camp staff and enjoy an environment still in its wild and unspoiled state. Elephant are nearly standard in Amboseli, but visitors can also expect to see Thomson and Grant’s gazelles, lions, cheetahs and leopards, bat eared fox, mongooses, porcupine, giraffe and yellow baboon among the many now indigenous species. We even managed to see a genet one evening as we made our way back to camp.
Upon arriving, we settled in to camp and enjoyed a nice al fresco lunch. The tents are basic but comfortable. Each of the 9 spacious tents have a double and a single bed. The bathrooms are equipped with flush toilet, a basin with cold running water and a ‘safari’ (bucket) shower. There is a desk in the room, and the night stand has a basket with ‘Doom’ (bug killer – not needed at all during my stay in any of the camps), insect repellent wipes, a flashlight and a whistle. Each tent also has a small verandah with chairs to enjoy your morning coffee or relax and read a book in the afternoon before tea.
After a rest and tea, we headed out for our afternoon activity – a walk with the Masai and a visit to their village. We were driven a short way from camp, then dropped off with our Masai guide, Jonah, and his companions. During our walk, Jonah taught us about some of the finer points of the African bush and we got close up to bushes, bugs and termite mounds. Additionally, the Masai demonstrated their skills in spear throwing with quite impressive results! The walk is on a dirt track through the bush and is appropriate for anyone with reasonable mobility. The walk takes about an hour including stops for questions and learning opportunities. Dust is probably the most major issue along the way; my shoes were caked in the conservancy’s copper-colored soil when we finished.
As we approached the village, Masai women and their children came out to greet us and escort us in. All of the Masai began singing a beautiful welcome song and I’m pretty sure I had goosebumps by this point. Walking into the village with the Masai was a special and memorable experience. During our visit, we were given demonstrations of village life. Games, fire starting, hut building and animal enclosures were just a few of the activities that we were privileged to observe. The warriors also showed their jumping prowess (as did the soon-to-be little warriors). It was the most authentic village experience that I have ever had in East Africa and I enjoyed it immensely. It is the conservancy model that helps to maintain the authenticity of the village and allows the Masai to continue their ways relatively unchanged; it appears that what Porini (and other camps and safari companies in Africa) is doing is working.
We ended the afternoon in the best possible way. After departing the village, we did a game drive through the conservancy and ended up on a plateau overlooking a stunning vista – Kilimanjaro – nearly cloudless with sunset approaching. We stopped for sundowners in this idyllic spot and enjoyed time with other guests from the camp around a fire while watching a magical sunset. What a day!
Next – all day game driving throughout Amboseli and visits to three of its distinct properties.
I have to begin this report by echoing Kent’s trip report from his journey to Tanzania in November. I flew United from Denver to Washington and on to Switzerland and it did in fact meet expectations of a cross-country bus ride. Poor food, expensive drinks and not much service were the low-lights of those flights. Swiss Air from Zurich to Nairobi was a huge improvement on service, but I must say the food was abysmal as well. All was forgotten upon arrival in Nairobi, however.
This visit I stayed in Hogmead, a new property located in the Nairobi suburb of Karen. In the evening (when traffic is low), it’s about a 40 minute drive from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport to Hogmead, and upon arrival I was welcomed like a long-lost friend. With only six luxurious rooms, this property is the perfect antidote to 24 hours of coach travel. I was given the Mara room much to my delight. It had a contemporary African feel and what felt like acres of space. A king-sized bed, carefully chosen artwork, two separate sitting areas and lovely furniture made me feel instantly relaxed, and the over-sized bathroom with its soaking tub and spa shower made me forget about the long journey.
Dinner was a family style affair, though private dining is also available. We made our way through four courses of beautiful food including a fillet of salmon that I’m experimenting to try and recreate. After a blissful sleep, I awoke to step out onto the private balcony to view the Ngong Hills made so famous by Karen Blixen and to listen to the gorgeous birdsong filling the grounds.
In all, a stay at Hogmead is the perfect way to recover from a transcontinental journey. My only regret was not having two nights there.
Next up I visit Amboseli National Park, home to famous vistas and a haven for elephants.
This would be the first not-about-Africa book we’ve reviewed here, but it has ties to Africa. For those that have enjoyed Peter Allison’s books (Whatever You Do, Don’t Run! and Don’t Look Behind You), How to Walk a Puma: And Other Things I Learned While Stumbling through South America is a natural segue. When he was nineteen, Peter flipped a coin to decide between going to South America and Africa; Africa won. After many (entertaining) years as a safari guide in Africa, he longed to explore the other continent that was part of his contest, so he headed to South America. This book shares his adventures there.
Mr. Allison does in fact walk a puma during his time in South America - over and over again – while trying not to get bitten in the knee too many times. He also rafts piranha- infested rivers, swims in snake infested waters and gets taken down by a wicked empanada. As with his other books, they don’t go too deep, but he can craft a story that will keep you entertained throughout. He manages some good cultural observations and makes the reader wish for some of his adventures but certainly not all. A fun read that doesn’t require much thinking.
A great update from our friends at Desert Rhino Camp in the Kuneue area of Namibia.
Weather and Landscape
No rains yet… the landscape remains covered in a sea of yellow grass, dotted with Damaraland euphorbia and whip-stick acacias. The daytime temperatures have been ranging from warm to hot, with little cloud cover offering temporary respite from the searing heat.
Wildlife
Two weeks ago the rhino called Dessy was in estrus and she moved into Don’t Worry’s territory – ready for mating. Dessy is eight years old and has not had a calf yet, so we will be expecting her first calf in about 16 months’ time. Don’t Worry is a sub-dominant bull, born in 1990 and his home range size is about 110 square kilometres. He shares his home range with his three sons namely: Tensie, Teabag and Erwin.
After eight months of being absent from the Desert Rhino Camp area, Getaway decided to give the guests an early Christmas present and grace them with his presence on the 24th. He is known to be very nervous but during this sighting he was really relaxed and calm and allowed the guests to watch him for some time. He is a breeding bull, born in 1975, and his home range is about 409 square kilometres. All in all, our guests had good rhino sightings during December.
General game viewing was also very good. Elephants were seen a few times; a breeding herd of nine, plus a lone bull. We also spotted a leopard with the guests – the animal was very relaxed and thus provided the guests with a superb sighting which lasted a good eight or nine minutes – this provided great photographic opportunities for all.
Birds and Birding
Bird life present in the area, in the form of Secretarybird, Ludwig’s Bustard, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, as well as Black-chested Snake-Eagle, were seen regularly, but due to the lack of rains, no visiting migrant birds just yet.
Guest Comments
“The variety of animals seen in this environment was mind blowing and was enhanced by the beauty and starkness of the landscape.”
“The use and awareness of conservation was excellent.”
“Dedicated staff, excellent service, and top safety of guests. Information of tracking, professional guides – thank you! The environment was beautiful and provided a true feeling of wilderness and serenity.”
This yummy recipe comes from our friends at Hogmead, a property in the Karen suburb of Nairobi, Kenya. We visited in November (and stayed in the ‘Mara Room’ – see the photo at left) and fell in love with the property and its scrumptious food. This recipe makes enough for a party.
Caesar Tartlets
Makes 70
Ingredients
140g (5oz) filo pastry sheets
25g (1oz) melted butter
1 ½ slices white bread
1 little gem lettuce
10 hard boiled quails eggs (cooked for 4 minutes)
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Divide and cut the filo sheets into 5cm squares to make 210 squares. Brush 3 squares with melted butter and arrange them on top of each other at an angle to form a 12 point star. (cover the rest of the filo sheets with damp kitchen paper and cling film while you do this to prevent them drying out and cracking.) Repeat with the other squares and press each pastry case gently into the wells of three 24 hole, no stick mini muffin tins.
Cook in the oven for about 8 minutes until they are crisp and golden. Leave the oven on. Cut the crusts off the bread and cut the slices into tiny cubes. Scatter over a baking tray and bake them in the oven for about 8 minutes or until golden brown.
Cut the lettuces into quarters and slice the leaves finely. Peel and quarter the eggs. Set aside until needed. In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, garlic, lemon juice, anchovy paste and olive oil until well combined. Toss the croutons, lettuce and grated parmesan into the dressing. Put the rest in the fridge to use for a salad. Anything up to an hour before serving, fill the tartlets with the salad mixture and top each with a quails egg and a grinding of black pepper.
This was a brief but entertaining read. The author buys a used Mercedes to drive from Europe to West Africa…don’t forget that the Sahara desert is smack in the middle of that journey!
Van Bergeijk is not the first to take this type of trip nor will he be the last; his account is engaging though not ground-breaking as he weaves in history of others’ journeys, the provinence of his particular used car and tales of his missteps along the way.
We’d rather be an armchair traveler on this kind of adventure; we’re happy to enjoy this account from the comfort of our couch. A fun read that would be something you could start and easily finish on the plane ride to Africa.
This quick game report comes from our friends at Mara Plains in Kenya (where we visited for a site inspection in November – it’s looking beautiful!).
Anyone who has visited Mara Plains will remember the iconic lone acacia tree on the plain in front of the mess with the escarpment as its backdrop. Last night, while returning home after a game drive, a beautiful leopardess was found slung comfortably over the lower branches of this tree next to a Thompson’s gazelle that she had killed earlier in the day.
To find a leopard here is a first. That she felt safe to slink so far into the open plains undetected is testament to how incredibly long the Mara grass is now. It is thought that this female has moved north from Kaboso, and she may be the one who was scrapping with Pretty Girl, our resident, last year. It is exciting to have her around and we hope to find her up the same tree visible from the camp this evening. While on the subject of our spotted cats- as some of you know Pretty Girl gave birth on Christmas Eve, and in the last couple of days her two tiny cubs have been seen for the first time. We welcome two little leopards to the Olare Orok Conservancy family and we wish them all the best.
Last night two Mara Plains guests (on their first game drive!) watched Pretty Girl stalk a baby Impala for over an hour in the setting sun light, moving an inch at a time through the towering grass, only a few feet from the car, creeping ever closer to her unsuspecting prey and then freezing like a statue. Her admirable and professional patience paid off, as she was upon the little Impala before it knew she was there, and Pretty Girl killed it within a few seconds. A good feed for a mother nursing two little cubs. And the best bit about seeing this successful leopard hunt? There was not another car in sight as far as the eye could see.
From our friends at Leopard Mountain Game Lodge in South Africa, we bring you this tasty recipe for potato samosas. These would be perfect fare to accompany a sundowner drink. Bon appetit!
Potato Samosas
Ingredients
Large potatoes
2
Medium onion
1
Garlic
1 tsp
Curry powder
½ tsp
Turmeric
¼ tsp
Ground cumin
¼ tsp
Garam masala
¼ tsp
Butter
2 tbsp
Ready made samosa pastry
1 packet
Method
Boil potatoes in salted water until soft
Fry onion until golden
Turn off heat, add buter and spces and mix until butter has melted
Mash the cooked potatoes and add onion mixture. Mix well
Lightly dampen a clean dish cloth. Remove pastry from wrapping and cover with the cloth to prevent the pastry drying out
Place 1 tsp of potato filling on to pastry. Fold to create a triangle and keep folding tightly in that sequence. When you come to the last fold brush pastry with eggs was to stick
Fry samosas in hot oil until golden
Can be served hot or cold
This recipe yields 15-20 samosas
Recipe and photo courtesy Leopard Mountain Game Lodge
How One of Big Life’s New Tracker Dogs Successfully Tracked Down Elephant Poachers Armed with AK47′s
Founded in September 2010 by photographer Nick Brandt in urgent response to the recent dramatic escalation in poaching across much of Africa, Big Life Foundation is a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation of Africa’s wildlife and ecosystems. This is a recent success story from their program.
The gang of Somali poachers, armed with AK47′s, shot and killed two big bull elephants for their ivory on consecutive days. It was not their first, for they had been killing elephants in the area for a year. Once again, they successfully fled the scene of the crime.
This happened not in the Amboseli ecosystem, where Big Life’s rangers have so dramatically reduced the poaching, but in a place called Rukinga, east of Tsavo, several hours drive away. A group there, Wildlife Works, had heard of Big Life’s newly-acquired tracker dogs. The four tracker dogs had just finished six months of intensive training. Two were to be based on the Tanzanian side, the first time tracker dogs have ever been implemented there for tracking poachers, and two in Kenya, the only tracker dogs in a huge area of the southeastern part of the country. Wildlife Works called, asking for help tracking the poachers.
The next morning, Jazz was flown in. He was shown the tracks and was off without a moment’s hesitation, his first ever real job. The poachers had employed clever anti-tracking techniques, splitting up, re-crossing their tracks and laying false trails. But Jazz saw straight through them and carried on. Llew, Big Life’s Field Co-ordinator, flew ahead of the ground teams with a spotter, hoping to spot the poachers or at least slow them down.
By 6.30pm, Jazz had been on the trail for over ten hours without break, and had covered about 20 miles without a single wrong turn, but needed a rest. In the meantime, a group of rangers continued ahead of Jazz, and soon spotted the poachers just ahead of them. The poachers ran, but were caught. Identified by their tracks, the men were arrested, and are now awaiting trial.
Although many people worked hard to make this arrest possible, it never would have happened without Jazz and his nose.
This incident has quickly proven what we already knew : that tracker dogs are one of the best anti-poaching deterrents money can buy. Poachers know that even a day after the event, dogs can find them, and there is nothing that the poacher can do to change this. The Maasai in particular are terrified of trackers dogs, regarding them as somehow supernatural in their ability to track them down.
So now Jazz and his canine cohorts have become one more critical piece in Big Life’s anti-poaching armory. The fact that Big Life is able to help other groups well beyond our range is an added bonus.
