Kent & Family's Trip Report from Tanzania May 2009

We're driving along the road from Arusha to the town of Mto Wa Mbu near Lake Manyara Tanzania. Maasai dressed in red shukas pull their bikes to the side of the road when our driver, Elissa, beeps his horn. The last few days have been very busy but fun.

After spending a couple wet nights on Kilimanjaro, I went up to Nairobi to pick up the family. We sat in terrible traffic on our way to the city but had a nice stay at Nairobi Serena Hotel. My advice: leave yourself plenty of time if you need to get to town. We flew a new airline Fly540 to Kilimanjaro which was good.

In Arusha, we had a lovely stay at Arusha Coffee Lodge. Thanks to Elewana for hosting us. The rooms are really large and the public areas are comfortable. Best of all they had a pool and a playground that the boys really enjoyed, and a kids menu with choices like lollipop chicken. Traffic in Arusha is bad too and they now have one stoplight but otherwise things looked much the same from years past.

Tarangire National Park, our first safari stop, was green and beautiful despite below normal rainfall which will likely cause hardships this dry season for both wildlife and people. Within 30 minutes, we saw waterbuck, impala, warthog and vervet monkeys, which the boys call sugar monkeys because of their habit of stealing sugar off the tables. Later we saw banded mongoose, Verreaux's eagle owl, ostrich and giraffes, and a big heard of buffaloes, one of whom mock charged the car. Best of all were the elephants. In two days we must have seen 400 to 500 elephants from tiny babies to huge bulls looking for romance with one of the cows. Of course, the many baobab trees created an exotic setting for photos. Thanks to Jon and Annette Simoson for hosting us at Tarangire Safari Lodge where the adults enjoyed the view and kids enjoyed the pool. In addition to tents for two guests, they also have family chalets sleeping three. Olivers Camp, now in its second season, at its new location in the center of the park, was also looking good.

Since I started writing this, we have already made it past Lake Manyara to the agricultural Mecca of Karatu for lunch at Gibbs Farm. Lunch at Gibbs Farm was delicious and the gardens look beautiful as always. The rooms are looking especially nice since they have expanded them. They boys enjoyed seeing the calves and piglets, although Tate was surprised to learn that in a year or so they could be what's for dinner! Next up: Ngorongoro Crater and Loliondo.

From Nduara Camp in Loliondo, we drove into Serengeti National Park. Within minutes our guide, Ken, spotted a young male lion on his own. He had probably been kicked out of his pride by older males and was fending for himself. This morning, he was having no luck finding breakfast.

Further into the park, Ken spotted a cheetah from a great distance so we drove closer and watched as he surveyed the plains for prey before disappearing into the tall grass. Later we saw hundreds, then thousands, of wildebeest and zebras. They were the head of the great migration, soon to be followed by a million more working their way northward toward Kenya's Masai Mara. Awaiting them were at least to big male lions perched Lion King style on top of a kopje. Surely there were many more predators around.

After a delicious picnic lunch under the shade of an acacia tree we circled back to see more herds of zebra and wildebeest along with a smattering of eland, Thompson gazelle and buffaloes. Following the Grumeti River back towards its source, we found our young lion hunkering in a bush being stared down by 20-plus giraffe and hundreds of zebra. He was going to have a hard time.

We arrived back at camp literally minutes before the clouds broke open releasing a torrential downpour which pounded our yurt and then said its goodbye by revealing a beautiful double rainbow. After drinks by the campfire we enjoyed a delicious dinner then fell asleep to the sounds of hyenas whooping and a nearby Maasai boma's singing celebration. It was a perfect Tanzania day.

On to the Coast! Zanzibar, the Spice Island, truly lives up to its name. As soon as you exit the airplane you are hit with a waft of rich heat that is both shocking and inviting.

After transferring to the airport we enjoyed a swim in the cool pool at Stone Town's Zanzibar Serena Inn. We visited the open air market and enjoyed a nice dinner. Stone Town is at once exotic, inviting and a little intimidating after a safari bu well worth a visit.

Next day, we shopped the winding alleyways of Stone Town then drove on the relatively newly paved roads to the northeast coast of the island. Shooting Star provided a down-to-earth and welcoming reception for us and while the family enjoyed the beach and pool, I visited many hotels in this area.

Today, Kelly and Bibi (grandma) took an EXCELLENT snorkel trip to Mnemba Atoll where they saw hundreds of varieties of fish. I stayed back with the boys to play on the beach and swim in the pool. When the tide is out, swimming is difficult but the tide pools reveal a great variety of marine life.

Tonight, we relaxed by the pool and finished the evening hunting for crabs and gazing at the stars. We're almost ready to head home!